2 – SAUSAGES AT HOME…………. (“Fresh” and “Cooked-Cured” Types)

2 – SAUSAGES AT HOME…………. (“Fresh” and “Cooked-Cured” Types)

Much of what our members do fits into this category. …so “let ‘er rip!”

 

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217 thoughts on “2 – SAUSAGES AT HOME…………. (“Fresh” and “Cooked-Cured” Types)

  1. “Certified” Pork And Raw Meat Sausages

    Injun Country Mettwurst
    Can you make your own delicious Mettwurst safely? Sure you can! Don’t pass up this delicious sausage just because you must “certify” the pork. True, Mettwurst is not fully cooked and the pork used must be “certified”. It requires some deep freezing to destroy trichinella spiralis, but you can do it!

    Destroying Trichinella Spiralis
    Trichinella spiralis is a parasitic roundworm whose larval form may be present in the flesh of pork or wild game and its painful infection is known as trichinosis. The best way to eradicate the dangers of the trinchinella spiralis larva is to simply cook the meat thoroughly. However, not all sausagemaking procedures allow the meat to be fully cooked or even cooked at all. In these cases, “certified pork” must be used; pork that has been deeply (sub-zero) frozen for a prescribed amount of time. Because of new USDA regulations in American hog production during the 1970’s and 80’s, the disease in modern America has mostly been eradicated. For decades preceding the new rules, many hog producers fed hogs the entrails of other butchered hogs as the cycle continued until the modern rules were put into effect. By public demand over an extended period of time, American pork has become less fatty and mostly trichinae free. It is interesting to note that in England, as well as in many other hog producing countries, trichinella spiralis is virtually unknown.

    Unless you are making a raw product using “certified pork”, you must always follow the recommended cooking temperatures in recipes. If Mettwurst or other raw sausage is being made, the pork must be “certified”. In other sausages, the internal temperature of cooked fresh pork must reach at least 150°F. (65°C.) . All hot smoked sausages should be cooked to 155° F. (68C.). Cold-smoked or air dried sausages, whose formulas contain Prague powder #2, should be cooked to 120-135° F. (49-57° C.). Never judge by looks alone, whether meat is cooked sufficiently, and always check the internal temperature using an accurate meat thermometer.

    Making “Certified Pork”
    In North America, there are five known species of Trichinella. They are Trichinella spiralis, T. nativa, T. pseudospiralis, Trichinella T-5, and Trichinella T-6. The one we deal with most often in pork is trichinella spiralis. The other four occur mostly in game animals. Species T-5 is found mostly in bears and other wildlife in the eastern United States, while speciesT-6 is mostly in bears and other wildlife in the Northwestern United States. SpeciesT. nativa is found in Alaska. Both T. nativa and Trichinella T-6 are resistant to freezing. Trichinella pseudospiralis has been reported infrequently from birds, but can infect pigs also.
    You would be surprised at just how many people believe that simple freezing will destroy trichinella spiralis. Actually, the majority of people believe it, and that frightens me. I often think of the folks who shoot javelinas and wild pigs and think simply freezing the carcass will take care of trichinella spiralis. It absolutely will not! In fact, The Division of Infectious Disease, Department of Medicine, at Massachusetts General Hospital has concluded that “Smoking, salting, or drying meat are not reliable methods of killing the organism that causes this infection”. Further, “Only freezing at subzero temperatures (Fahrenheit) for 3 to 4 weeks will kill the organism”. If folks ever gazed into a microscope and saw the round nematode worm embedded far into human muscle tissue, they would surely think twice about proper sub-zero temperatures. The first time I saw the living microorganism beneath the microscope, I thought I’d lose my lunch! The thing that alarms me is that most people do not have the means of freezing meat at these cryogenic temperatures – so, they take the chance. Yet, if the pork has come from a reliable grocer rather than an “independent small farmer”, you will be pretty much safe.

    Wanna get’ really scared?
    Here’s how the little buggers work: Trichinella cysts break open in the intestines and grow into adult roundworms whenever a person eats meat from an infected animal. These roundworms produce other worms that move through the stomach wall and into the bloodstream. From here, the organisms tend to invade muscle tissues, including the heart and diaphragm, lungs and brain. At this point, trichinosis becomes most painful.

    But we can get rid of it right? Wrong! The medications Mebendazole or albendazole may be used to treat infections in the intestines, but once the larvae have invaded the muscles, there is no specific treatment for trichinosis and the cysts remain viable for years. Complications of the disease include encephalitis, heart arrhythmias, myocarditis, (inflammation), and complete heart failure. Pneumonia is also a common complication. So, what do we do? Purchase pork from a known, reliable, supplier who conforms to USDA and FSIS rules and imports commercially-grown pork. Or, you can cryogenically treat your own if you are a small producer of hogs and insist on feeding your piggies the entrails of other animals.

    USDA (FSIS) Regulations Regarding The Destruction of Trichinella Spiralis

    The Meat Inspection Division of the United States Department Of Agriculture arranges the size, volume, and weight of meat products into “groups” to specify handling instructions. Meat from hogs, having safely passed these specific requirements, is called “certified pork”.

    Group 1 “comprises meat products not exceeding 6” (inches) in thickness, or arranged on separate racks with the layers not exceeding 6” in depth, or stored in crates or boxes not exceeding 6” in depth, or stored as solidly frozen blocks not exceeding 6” in thickness”.

    Group 2 “comprises products in pieces, layers, or within containers, the thickness of which exceeds 6” but not 27” and products in containers including tierces, barrels, kegs, and cartons, having a thickness not exceeding 27”. The product undergoing such refrigeration or the containers thereof shall be spaced while in the freezer to insure a free circulation of air between the pieces of meat, layers, blocks, boxes, barrels, and tierces, in order that the temperature of the meat throughout will be promptly reduced to not higher than 5 degrees F., -10 degrees F., or -20 degrees F., as the case may be”.

    Item 1: Heating & Cooking

    “All parts of the pork muscle tissue shall be heated to a temperature of not less than 138° F.” Whenever cooking a product in water, the entire product must be submerged for the heat to distribute entirely throughout the meat. Always test the largest pieces since it always takes longer to reach the 138°F temperature in thicker pieces. Always test the temperature in a number of places.

    Item 2: Refrigerating & Freezing

    “At any stage of preparation and after preparatory chilling to a temperature of not above 40° F., or preparatory freezing, all parts of the muscle tissue of pork or product containing such tissue shall be subjected continuously to a temperature not higher than one of these specified in Table 1, the duration of such refrigeration at the specified temperature being dependent on the thickness of the meat or inside dimensions of the container.”

    Table 1: Required Period Of Freezing At Temperature Indicated

    Group 1 (first number of days) – Group 2 (second number of days)
    +05° F. 20 days / 30 days
    -10° F. 10 days / 20 days
    -20° F. 6 days / 12 days

    Item 3: Curing Sausage

    “Sausage may be stuffed in animal casings, hydrocellulose casings, or cloth bags. During any stage of treating the sausage for the destruction of live trichinae, these coverings shall not be coated with paraffin or like substance, nor shall any sausage be washed during any prescribed period of drying. In preparation of sausage, one of the following methods may be used:

    Method No. 1:
    “The meat shall be ground or chopped into pieces not exceeding ¾” in diameter. A dry-curing mixture containing not less than 3-1/3 lbs. of salt to each hundredweight of the unstuffed sausage shall be thoroughly mixed with the ground or chopped meat. After being stuffed, sausage having a diameter not exceeding 3-1/2” measured at the time of stuffing, shall be held in a drying room not less than 20 days at a temperature not lower than 45 degrees F., except that in sausage of the variety known as pepperoni; if in casing and not exceeding 1-3/8” in diameter at the time of stuffing, the period of drying may be reduced to 15 days. In no case, however, shall the sausage be released from the drying room in less than 25 days from the time the curing materials are added, except that the sausage of the variety known as pepperoni, if in casings not exceeding the size specified, may be released at the expiration of 20 days from the time the curing materials are added. Sausage in casings exceeding 3-1/2” but not exceeding 4” in diameter at the time of stuffing shall be held in a drying room not less than 35 days at a temperature not lower than 45 degrees F., and in no case shall the sausage be released from the drying room in less than 40 days from the time the curing materials are added to the meat.

    Method No. 2:
    “The meat shall be ground or chopped into pieces not exceeding ¾” in diameter. A dry-curing mixture containing no less than 3-1/3 lbs. of salt to each hundredweight of the unstuffed sausage shall be thoroughly mixed with the ground or chopped meat. After being stuffed, the sausage having a diameter not exceeding 3-1/2” measured at the time of stuffing, shall be smoked not less than 40 hours at a temperature of not lower than 80 degrees F. and finally held in a drying room not less than 10 days at a temperature not lower than 45 degrees F. In no case, however, shall the sausage be released from the drying room in fewer than 18 days from the time the curing materials are added to the meat. Sausage exceeding 3-1/2”, but not exceeding 4” in diameter at the time of stuffing, shall be held in a drying room following the smoking as above indicated, not less than 25 days at a temperature not lower than 45 degrees F., and in no case shall the sausage be released from the drying room in less than 33 days from the time the curing materials are added to the meat.

    Injun Country Mettwurst
    25 Lb. Batch

    The US Department of Agriculture classifies
    this sausage as an “uncooked” sausage and
    requires that it be made using “certified” pork
    (treated frozen pork) to destroy trichinella spiralis.

    2 Tbsp. Ground Nutmeg
    2 -1/2 Tbsp. Ground White Pepper
    2 -1/2 tsp. Ground Celery Seed
    2 -1/2 Tbsp. Ground Allspice
    2 -1/2 tsp. Marjoram
    1 -1/2 tsp. Ground Caraway Seed
    2 -1/2 tsp. Ground Coriander
    2 oz. (4 Tbsp.) Powdered Dextrose
    * (3 Tbsp.Sugar may be substituted if desired)
    4 -1/2 tspn. Whole Mustard Seed
    2/3 cup Kosher Salt
    1 cup Distilled Water
    5 tspns. Cure #1
    15 Lbs. Pork Butt (*See USDA “curing” requirements above)
    10 Lbs. Beef Chuck

    Instructions:
    Grind all the meat with fat through a 1/8″ grinder plate. Next, add the Cure #1 to the water and mix it into the meat. Mix in the soy protein concentrate and distribute it evenly with your hands. Add all other ingredients into just enough water to make a “soupy” mixture and mix the combination in thoroughly. Blend the mixture until the primary bind proteins develop and “soft peaks” are made when the meat is pulled apart with your hands. If necessary, add just enough ice water to ready the sausage for stuffing. (Do not add more than 2 lbs. of ice water.)
    Stuff the meat into washed beef rounds cut into 16” to 18” lengths, prick the casings, tie the ends together, and hang sausages on sticks to dry inside a cooler 24 hours and 40°F. for 24 hours. Place the sausages into your smokehouse (in heavy smoke) at 100°F. for eight hours. Allow the sausages to cool to room temperature before hanging them overnight in the cooler again. It is important to understand the curing instructions below:

    *Note that this sausage is not “cooked cured” because it is not cooked above the point where trichinella spiralis is destroyed (137°F.). Therefore, we need to use “certified” pork in this recipe; pork which has been sufficiently frozen to destroy trichinella spiralis. For you own safety, please read and understand the information about certifying your own pork.

    Best Wishes,
    Chuckwagon

  2. [NB: SawhorseRay’s post is around here somewhere! We’ll find it and post it as soon as we can. Meanwhile, please enjoy this nice elevator music…]
    Ray’s pictures:
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    1. They say a picture is worth a thousand words, so at least you’ve got that going for ya! Don’t fret finding it, it’s just a wild hog sausage post, not the first, hopefully not the last. Next week I’ll post a little something on 19 pounds of pork loin that is brining in my fridge right now to become smoked Canadian bacon. RAY

        1. Hmmmmm…. dog ate the homework eh?
          I went to see my friend Chief Wannum Less Bull. He say… “Grrrrrr….. DUK speak with forked tongue! Duk make BIG squawk for little bird. Him full of hot gasses”.
          Then the Chief’s daughter (Watta Lotta Bull) came into the teepee and said, “Duk full of Bean Sprouts…. (B.S.) He should soak head in bucket of water five minutes.”
          Then Watta Lotta turned to me and said, “Duk not even have dog!”

          1. Oh yeah???
            Well, Duk has a grand-dog and two grand-cats.
            So there.

            Grand-cat Pressley Sweetpants (named after a predecessor, Elvis Picklepants) will shred your bed and any exposed body parts in the middle of the night. At the other house, Lola the cat will deliver recently-captured (sometimes dead, but not always) small animals to your pillow every Friday or Saturday night at 2AM, and Pepper the dog will make sure you wake up in time to find (and enjoy?) them.

            …or else ya get licked in the face. …so there.
            😀

        2. Well heck, the next post might not be available to lose until next Monday or Tuesday! We could avoid the rush and just chop this one up today. I made my brine 6 quarts of ice water, 4 & 1/2 tablespoons of Cure #1, I cup powdered dextrose, a cup and a half of canning salt, and a 2oz bottle of Mapleine. A whole pork loin cut in half is just about the most perfect thing a man, or woman, could inject with brine. RAY
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          1. After all that chopping and injecting I made a nice hog sausage, cheddar, Ortega chili, onion omelet slathered in salsa with my last little hunk of Canadian bacon on the side, nice oatnut toast and OJ to round out the Breakfast of Champions. There ya go Ducky, lose that! RAY
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          2. My goodness Ray,
            You need to be in the breakfast business! Make your own sausage, and catch all your own fish too. Folks would travel miles to the Sawhorse Breakfast Inn.

  3. Göteborg Summer Sausage
    Last month we made a twenty-five pound batch of Göteborg Summer Sausage. Although I followed Chuckwagon’s Recipe for “Sunrise Summer Sausage”, I used Rytek’s sugestion of replacing half the beef with beef heart.

    All the meat selections before cubing and curing.
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    1. Wow Jim, what an interesting variation. Beef heart (half). I’m willing to bet the ranch that it is a huge success! Please take more photos and let us know how this project turns out. This is a fabulous idea and bound to change the texture and flavor just slightly. Ol’ Rytek would give you a pat on the back pal.

      Best Wishes,
      Chuckwagon

    2. Diced to one inch cubes, mixed with the proper amount of cure and salt, divided into two equal halves. Ready for a three day rest in the cooler.
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  4. My Pal The Bullshipper And Two Types Of “South Pass Sun-Dried Tomato Sausage”

    It was not Henry Ford who invented the dipstick, as reported to every 3rd grade student in America. No, no, no, indeed! An’ only I, Smoky Wheelrut Wagontrack — Chuckwagon’s cousin, and “History Intransigent Sui-Generis Extraordinaire”, will soon put an end to this preposterous, pagan poppycock… baseless, infuriating balderdash… and erroneous whimsical nonsense!

    You see, the very first “dipstick” was actually a lanky, rope-twirlin’, skinny dude named Bad Bob. The meadow-muffin kickin’ cowboy was a dopey, driftin’ drover who threw a long loop, practicing on the neighbor’s cows every afternoon until he once had a great scare. Spotting a bull having a horrid face much like Maybelline’s (Bob’s ex-wife), the poor man immediately went into shock, turning quite pale from the neck upward. Seeing Maybelline’s face on the bellowing bovine was just too much for Bob to fathom, as he slipped into sorrow and mourning with great pity for the poor creature. Dragged back to the ranch by his faithful horse “Plug”, all Bad Bob could possibly utter was, “Oh, that poor, poor, bull – cursed with Maybelline’s monstrous mug”, as hour-by-hour, Bob’s own face became more whitened and pale.

    I was getting worried about the cardcheatin’ curmudgeon, so I took him to that ol’ sourdough, Doc “Half-Horse” Henry Hayburner, our local veterinarian and horse farrier – a man rather famous for curing crazed cowboys. By now, Bob had turned pure white from the neck on up. Ol’ Doc Hayburner, upon examining the colorless cowpoke in his truly morose condition, squinted through his wire-rimmed spectacles, drew his hand down his scruffy, white beard and proceeded to mix up two pints of the most unimaginatively foul and horrid lookin’ concoction ever conceived or conjured up by any contemptuous quack.

    “Drink this straight down Bob!”, ordered Doc. With that, my ol’ pal poured it down his gullet without taking a breath. Bob belched, spit, cussed, and started jumping up and down.
    “Good grief, Doc!” Bob exclaimed, “That tastes like it’s been run through the south end of a northbound bull!”
    “It was”, Doc replied, “You were a quart low!”

    South Pass Sun-Dried Tomato Sausage (2 Types)
    Recipe #1 (Fresh – Refrigerate And Use Within 3 Days.)
    Recipe #2 (If “Cooked-Cured-Smoked”, You MUST use Cure #1.)

    5 lbs. pork butt
    6- ½ oz. sun-dried tomatoes in oil
    ¾ lbs. mozzarella
    1 bunch parsley
    1 tspn. dried basil
    1 tspn. fennel seed
    1 tspn. ground coriander
    1 tspspn. garlic powder
    1- tbspn. coarse black pepper
    1-1/2 tbspn non-iodized salt
    1 Tblspn. Hungarian Paprika
    ¾-cup dry white wine (not a fruity wine!) I like Sauvignon Blanc
    Note: If making Recipe #2 (Cooked-Cured-Smoked) add:
    1 level tspn. Cure #1 (pink salt)
    1 cup Soy Protein Concentrate

    Instructions:

    Coarsely chop the sundried tomatoes and then dice the mozzarella into smaller ¼” cubes. Finely chop the parsley. Toast the dried basil, fennel seeds, and coriander just slightly in the bottom of a dry saute’ pan. Don’t get carried away – you just need them to release their aromatic oils. And please, please… don’t use processed, ground, black pepper! Purchase whole black, peppercorns and grind your own. You won’t believe the difference in the flavor.

    Place the grinder knife and your 3/8” and 3/16” plates into the freezer while you separate much of the meat and fat with a sharp boning knife. Cut the meat into 1” cubes to keep long strands of sinew from wrapping around the auger behind the plate as the meat is ground. Grind the meat using the knife and 3/8” plate from the freezer. Grind the fat using the 3/16” frozen plate. Be sure to refrigerate the meat and fat at every opportunity. Place the fat into the freezer while you mix the Cure #1 with a little water (for uniform distribution) and add it to the meat. Next, mix the meat with all the remaining ingredients (except the frozen fat), kneading the mixture to develop the proteins myosin and actin, creating a “sticky meat paste” (primary bind). Finally, gently fold in the frozen fat and distribute it equally throughout the mixture.

    Depending upon various recipes or preferences, the sausage may now be refrigerated several hours for maturing, or the sausage may be immediately stuffed into casings to avoid smearing while the fat remains frozen. If you are going to smoke the sausages, stuff the sausage into 32-36 mm. hog casings, allowing them to hang and dry at room temperature for an hour or place them into a smokehouse preheated to 130°F. (54°C.) for an hour with the damper fully open to assist with moisture elimination. When the sausages are dry to the touch, introduce hickory smoke and adjust the damper to only ¼ the way open. Gradually, only a couple of degrees at twenty minutes intervals, raise the smokehouse temperature until the internal meat temperature (IMT) registers 152°F. (67°C.). This procedure must be done slowly, over the period of several hours, to avoid breaking the collagen and liquefying the fat. Finally, remove the sausages and shower them with cold water until the IMT drops to less than 90°F. (32°C.). This sausage remains perishable and must be refrigerated.

    Best Wishes,
    Chuckwagon

  5. Sunrise Summer Sausage”
    Semi-Dry-Cured Summer Sausage

    Summer sausage has not been traditionally made during the summer months – it was consumed during the summer! Historically, the air-dried favorite has been made during the colder winter months, becoming bacteriologically stable as it dried slowly.

    6 lbs. pork butt
    4 lbs. beef chuck
    2 level tspns. Instacure No. 1
    4 tblspns. uniodized salt
    4 tblspns. corn syrup solids
    4 tblspns. powdered dextrose
    6 oz. (170 gr.) Fermento
    2 tspns. garlic powder
    2 tblspn. mustard powder
    1 tblspn. ground coriander
    1 tspn. allspice

    This particular recipe is made without using a Bactoferm culture. Note that Fermento is not a starter culture. It is simply a flavoring ingredient made from whey in the dairy industry. However, some degree of fermentation will be accomplished by the “chance contamination” of naturally present lactobacillus or pediococcus bacteria nourished by the dextrose and corn syrup solids in the recipe. Fermento, produced and sold by the Sausagemaker™, gives semi-dry-cured summer sausage a small but proper boost of “tangy” flavor if the recommended amount is not exceeded. It is an organic product and may be used safely.

    Separate the fat from the lean meat and cut only the fat into 3/8” dice. Place it into the freezer. Grind the lean meat through a 3/16” plate then add all the other ingredients, mixing the Prague Powder #1 with a little ice water for even distribution. Mix the lean meat until the actomyosin develops the “primary bind” and becomes tacky. Finally, add the larger diced frozen fat and carefully fold it into the meat, distributing it evenly. Stuff the sausage into your favorite casings (see paragraph below), hang them on smokesticks, and allow them to ferment 24-48 hours at 85˚ F. (29˚ C.) in 90% relative humidity. I have known sausage makers, fearing spoilage, who have preferred to place the sausages inside a 38°F. cooler (at a much reduced humidity) for a period of 48 hours at this point. Note that at this lowered temperature, the activity of lactobacillus is greatly reduced, requiring more time for fermentation to take place.

    Next, pat the sausages dry, hang them in your smoker, and introduce smoke for 5 hours, dropping the relative humidity to 70%. Gradually, increase the smokehouse temperature only a few degrees every twenty minutes or so, until they reach an internal meat temperature of 140˚F. (Any possible trichinella spiralis has been destroyed at 138˚ F.). Shower the sausages with cold water until the internal meat temperature drops below 80˚ F. (26˚ C.). Pat them dry and allow the sausages to continue drying at 65˚ F. (18˚ C.), three more days in 70% humidity. Now is the time to “bite ‘em”! At this point, your summer sausage could possibly require “extensive taste testing”, usually performed with the assistance of several stout, ice-cold, foaming, beverages. Store the sausages at 50˚ F. (10˚C.) in 75% humidity.

    Traditionally, sewn beef middles about two feet in length and almost 3” in diameter were used for summer sausage. I’ve had great success with 3-1/2” diameter fibrous casings cut two feet long. Placed in dark brown netting, the product is very presentable and popular as gifts. Most folks today prefer much smaller summer sausages using 38 m. m. hog casings or mahogany-colored synthetic fibrous casings cut about a foot in length.

    This is “Cervelat” summer sausage with coriander. If you wish to make “Goteborg” summer sausage, delete the coriander and substitute up to 2 tablespoons of ground nutmeg.

    Best Wishes,
    Chuckwagon

  6. How old is Chuckwagon?
    Well- – he went in for a check-up, learned that his blood type was recalled years back, and that they no longer make it.

    Don’t suffer the same problem. Have a look at our morcilla (blood sausage) recipes
    by clicking on this link for the site’s Recipes section.
    What…? Don’t see one that you like? How about sharing yours? Input it via “7 – Recipe Input – Sausages”. Blood sausages of various sorts are popular in many parts of the world. We’d love to see & taste yours.
    Especially Chuckwagon, who’s about a quart low and nearly a bubble off-level.

    Buen provecho!
    Count Duckula
    😀

    1. What? Why you webbed-footed whirley bird! What do you mean, “a quart low and nearly a bubble off-level”? Now listen here, you… you… primitive parcel of psychotic plumage! If I wanted to check myself out, I would climb up to your ego and jump down to your IQ.
      And… just why is it that you can’t decide on anything at all! I asked you if you had a hard time making up your mind and you said, “Uh… well, yes and no”. Why you goofy wannabe cuckoobird… I believe you are a taco short of a combination plate! Yesterday, you threw your mobile phone away because you couldn’t find the “eleven button”, so you could dial 911.
      I remember when you told me that you always practice “safe eating”, because you always use condiments. That was right after you said you were always the life of any party… even if it lasted clear till 8:00 o’ clock P.M.! Shucks, these folks should see just how patient you are… you know… opening childproof caps… with a hammer! The other day, you told me that 87.4% of all statistics are made up on the spot! Yup, that’s just before you said , “The most important rule in a gunfight is: Always win – and cheat like hell if necessary.” OOOOOoooooo you… you… you half-baked hummingbird! Will you please hold still while I reload!

  7. Okay you… you…. DUK! You asked for it! Here’s my ranch outfit’s recipe for blood sausage.
    Have you ever heard of Kiszka? Well pards, this is it! Otherwise known as “blood sausage”, it was my least favorite to make at the ranch because of the inhumane treatment of the poor animal. Now, try to understand… we lived on a cattle ranch. A pig or hog was just not a common sight around the place, but when we heard the distinct sounds of a piggy’s squeal, we knew he would be turned into sausage soon. I hated the process. A hog was hung by its hind feet and his throat was cut to let out a controlled volume of blood… slowly. It was horrific. The poor piggy bled to death, squealing for life. I hated being anywhere near the process and still do. My Uncle had married a sweet French woman from Lordes, and indeed, she ran the ranch. Her words became law and everyone in the county loved her. However, whenever my Aunt developed a hankerin’ for blood sausage, I invented any excuse I could possibly find to go round up strays! From time to time, she insisted on some Polish “Kiszka”, (called Boudin Rouge [red] in French). Other variations include Boudin Blanc (meaning “blood sausage-white”), and Boudin Noir (meaning “blood sausage-black”). Don’t confuse this sausage with Cajun Boudin sausage. I still have Margie’s recipe (below), and I’m about to share it with you and others who like this type of sausage. In Ireland and England it is called Black Pudding. In Spain, it’s Morcilla, and the Germans call theirs Blutwurst.

    Virtually every country in the world has its own indigenous and exclusive blood sausage recipe. Why? It utilizes yet another part of a harvested animal in addition to being highly nutritious. Most have “fillers” of some sort. For instance, the English wouldn’t think of making blood sausage without rusk, barley, or oatmeal. In the past, during times of war when meat was scarce, most people used some sort of filler simply to add bulk. The Irish used potatoes and of course, still do. In Poland, favorite fillers include barley, semolina, and even rice. Buckwheat groats are also very popular in Polish blood sausages. The Spaniards seem to get carried away using fillers of apple, parsley, eggs, rice, milk, cheese, pimentos, and even almonds. The Swedes love rye and raisins, while in South America, some countries prefer all sorts of wheat and wheat flour, and of course, corn. Fillers from grains must be pre-cooked, or soaked overnight as in the case of oatmeal. (Please note if you choose to use buckwheat groats as a filler, order them from a sausage-making supply house as the factory-processed groats found in a supermarket are not complementary as a filler.)

      What kind of blood is used?

    I suggest pork blood from the piggy. Technically, the blood of any animal is acceptable. The blood of cattle is almost black and although it is the traditional choice of the English, pork blood is much lighter in color.

      How much blood goes into the sausage?

    Sixty percent seems to be the upper limit, drawing the line to keep the sausage from being too dark in color and acceptable in texture. Many old timers prefer cold, sliceable, blood sausage eaten directly from the blade of a pocket knife. This sausage usually contains less than 10% blood. Other folks like a little more substantial color and blood “flavor”, adding 30% to 60% blood.

      Which cuts of meat are used?

    Blood sausage has traditionally been made to salvage the least preferred parts of an animal including the skin and inner organs such as the liver. The volume guidelines of each are given in Margie’s recipe below, however the amounts are just suggestions. You may certainly add more or less of any part of the piggy.

      Important notes:

    Blood provides an ideal atmosphere in which bacteria thrive. For this reason, keep it cold and use it within 24 hours. The blood must be free of coagulated elements and filtered through cheesecloth while cold just prior to being mixed with the meat. If you slaughter your own animal, be sure to continually stir the blood as it is collected, then get it into a refrigerator! Blood may be frozen for future use, but do not add salt to blood believing it will extend its shelf life. It will not. However, added salt for flavor is another matter. Use 1.5% to 2.0% non-iodized or kosher salt. Most folks like onion (chopped) in blood sausage. However, raw onions can be bitter. Lightly pan-fry them before adding them to the mixture. Other favorite spices (or herbs) include pepper, thyme, marjoram, caraway, nutmeg, coriander, and allspice. Last but certainly not least, it must be understood that blood sausage ingredients are cooked before being ground, mixed, and stuffed (with the exception of the blood and fat which undergo a separate process). Follow instructions very carefully.

    Bullshipper’s Boudin
    French Boudin Rouge Blood Sausage

    1.10 lbs. (500 gr.) pork butt (or other preference)
    0.10 lbs. (45 g.) pork liver
    0.10 lbs. (45 g.) pork skin
    0.50 lbs. (227 g.) pork blood
    0.40 lbs. (181 g.) barley groats or buckwheat groats
    3 tspns. (18 g.) salt (not iodized)
    2 tspns. (4.0 g.) black pepper
    1 tspn. (2.0 g.) marjoram
    ½ onion (30 g.) chopped onion

    Before you start any grinding, (AFTER cooking in this recipe), make sure your blades are sharp. (We have a post in the tech section with sharpening instructions.)
    Now that your blade’s cutting edges are sharp, they will slice through meat instead of tearing or ripping it. Poach any skin or meat (except the liver), in a little water heated to 185°F. When the meat has cooked and becomes softened, remove it to a cooling rack while continuing to cook any skin. Raise the temperature of the water to 205°F and cook the skin until it has also softened. Meanwhile, boil the groats thirty minutes, stirring them frequently. Remove them from the heat, cover the pot, and allow them to stand in the water another half an hour. Grind the cooked pork through a 3/8” plate and boiled skins through a 1/8” plate. Add the salt and spices to the mixture and blend them thoroughly. Stuff the mixture into your favorite middles, rounds, or synthetic casings, remembering not to stuff them too tightly. On the ranch, we used beef rounds with great success. Pork middles also make fine casings. When your sausages look like they’ll win blue ribbons at the fair, place them into boiling water and poach them at 180°F up to an hour-and-a-half, until the IMT reaches 155°F. Immediately submerge the cooked sausages in ice water for a minute, and then allow cold running water to cool them all the way down to 45°F before refrigerating them. This is a cooked-cured type sausage and it must be refrigerated to be stored any length of time. They may be frozen in vacuum bags for future use.

    Best Wishes,
    Chuckwagon

  8. Hey Duk, bought my first packer today – just weeks ahead of the anniversary of when we were in Texas when you showed us the finest brisket eateries in HIll Country. It will be luncheon meat at a family reunion in July. Bought it early to stay ahead of the incredible increases in beef prices. I paid $13.99/kg but the butcher said he would trim it for me and charge $19.99/kg. One of the 2 best Montreal Smoked Meat eateries in Montreal reported that his brisket price has gone up 300% since the new year. It’s a crazy world, eh!

    1. Watching Aaron Franklin trim a brisket I’m thinking the fat could be used for pepperoni but then he trims off a large piece and says not to use it for sausage. Hmmmm did he mean that piece or all of the fat trimmed from the packer?

      1. …couple of answers, Phil. One says that pork fat is better, tastier, in sausage than beef tallow. The other is that the cap is just too big to be useful. I leave a portion on for “self basting.” The City Market in Luling, Texas (which we’ll hit if we can ever lure you back to Texas) uses all the cooked scraps and trim pieces to make a sausage so greasy that it probably violates USDA guidelines, but dang! It sure is tasty. You have to take cover when you puncture the casing! It’s best when cooked a bit more than other sausages, so that much of the liquid can drip out. If you or I tried this, there’d be a full-blown practice session for the local Volunteer Fire Department. (Multiple napkins mandatory.) Raw trim, though, gets recycled to animal feed.

        CW can probably add a reason or two, based on melting temperatures (tallow melts lower than pork fat). Franklin seems to know what he’s doing- – the crowds are so big that I can’t get near the place. I would suggest trimming minimally, except for large chunks like the cap, and then trimming after cooking (or letting individual diners do their own trimming.

        Wow, that’s a high price! I’m afraid it’ll be $19.99 a Troy ounce by summer, soon to rival the price of gold, so you did the right thing buying early.

        See you in July! ? ! ?
        Duk
        😀

        1. I use the Poli recipe for slim jims which inclues 2 lbs beef with about 50% fat (trim) and 2 lbs of lean beef plus one lb of pork trim (50%). I don’t have beef trim so that’s what lead to the idea of using the fat trimmed off the brisket. There seems to be no agreement amongst pit masters about trimming fat before or after cooking the brisket.

          1. I guess that old generalization, “All generalizations are wrong, including this one,” was right.
            …or wrong.
            …or something.
            …or whatever. I bet they’re going to taste good.
            …but maybe they oughta be called “Fat Jims” ??
            …Duk
            … 😀

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